Onigiri Asakusa Yadoroku
What can you tell us about this place?
Onigiri Asakusa Yadoroku, Tokyo’s oldest onigiri restaurant, has a quaint, inviting charm. Behind a counter designed for eight diners, owner Yosuke Miura is hard at work sculpting his famous flavor bombs by hand. Surrounding him is a crowd of voracious diners, eager to gulp down the snack as fast as he can build them.
What’s the crowd like?
They are an enthusiastic bunch, ordering their onigiri a half-dozen at a time.
What should we be drinking?
Tea and soft drinks.
Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
A reliable Japanese snack parlor is an increasingly precious commodity; thankfully, this place does it dependably, just as it has for decades. Start with the the shrimp and miso onigiri, then see how far outside your comfort zone you’re willing to climb.
And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?
Keep it moving, they say. They’ve got a lot more onigiri to get through today.
What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? Anything we should keep in mind?
This is a quick and easy snack stop for a small group of friends. Consider it an opening act for dinner and do the the main event elsewhere.
Asakusa Imahan
So, what can you tell us about this place?
Asakusa Imahan is a massive, multi-leveled shrine to sukiyaki and shabu-shabu. Slip your shoes off, climb into a private booth, and heat up some top-quality meat.
Got it. Who else is here?
Couples on first dates, businessmen bunched into booths, and full families crowding around in-table skillets.
What should we be drinking?
Sake and pints of Sapporo.
Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
Asakusa Imahan excels in traditional sukiyaki, with impeccable, finely marbled beef that’s ready to hit the grill. Adding to the experience, you’ll sit cross legged on a tatami mat.
And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?
Although they’re not often visible, they routinely check in, just to be sure you’re set.
What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?
Sukiyaki is for all occasions, whether it’s a business dinner, date night, or family meal.
Karaage-ya Oshu Iwai
So, can you tell us a little about this place?
More of a food stall than a proper restaurant, Karaage-ya Oshu Iwai is an unbeatable option for on-the-go fried chicken in Tokyo. A wooden placard mounted above a series of white noren banners is all there is by way of decoration, but as far as advertising goes, those take a backseat to the unmistakable aroma of chicken and garlic wafting into the street.
Who else is here?
Groups of 20- and 30-somethings.
What should we be drinking?
Soda and iced green tea from a mini-fridge.
Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
The secret to the chicken’s success here is the optimal ratio of crispy breading to juicy meal. There’s also a wide range of finishes, including spicy, garlic fried, sweet, and soy-glazed. Orders are served right from the fryer in a small carton with toothpicks as utensils. Not sure where to start? Go for the Iwaii Bento, a crowd favorite.
And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?
Staffers are fast and courteous from their position behind the counter. The menu is written in Japanese, so ask for help if you need it.
What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?
Come for lunch and evening to-go snacks. The more friends you come with, the more you’ll get to try.
Han no Daidokoro Kadochika
What can you tell us about this place?
Han no Daidokoro Kadochika is a sleek lounge tucked into the fourth floor of the Dogenzaka Center Building. Inside, the wood appointments are inlaid with a circular metal thatch—the key indicator of yakiniku, or grilled meats. The name of the game here is wagyu, but not just any wagyu; rather, beef from Yamagata, a prefecture second to none in its caliber of cattle-raising.
What’s the crowd like?
Somber businessmen (loosening up with each passing round) and gregarious groups of carnivorous friends.
What should we be drinking?
Ice-cold lagers: the perfect accompaniment to seared wagyu beef.
Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
Seared Yamagata beef is a beautiful thing—and not just for your Instagram feed. It melts in your mouth, leaving nothing but a trail of unctuous umami in its wake. Order the Yamagata Gyu Ittougai, a sampling of as many as six varieties of wagyu, all sliced thin and ready to hit the grill.
And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?
Incredibly helpful and eager to please. If they suspect you need help with the grilling, they’ll cheerfully step in.
What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?
Come here with your favorite carnivores, and leave the vegetarians at home.
Taiyaki Wakaba
What can you tell us about this place?
Taiyaki Wakaba’s glass-encased kitchen is viewable from the street and bordered by a green awning. Inside, craftsmen crank out a traditional seafood dessert as they’ve been doing so skillfully here for more than a century. Most Americans have never heard of taiyaki; here you can discover firsthand what you’ve been missing.
What’s the crowd like?
A mix—everyone who lines up is excited to try this time-honored Japanese treat.
What should we be drinking?
Free hot green tea.
Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
Sea bream, red bean paste, and batter combine to form an unlikely confection. Molded into the shape of an actual fish, this afternoon snack strikes the perfect balance between salty, sweet, and savory.
And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?
They take your money; they give you taiyaki. There’s pretty much nothing more to the transaction.
What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?
A lighthearted spot to take your kids or an unexpected detour on a day date.
Shichisai
Tamai Nihonbashi Honten
So, can you tell us a little about this place?
Tamai Nihonbashi Honten, an anago—or eel—destination, is a dense space with black-painted wood and a paper lantern hanging high overhead.
What’s the crowd like?
A spirited assortment of salarymen and Ginza locals, young and old.
What’s the drink situation?
Non-alcoholic: hot green tea, assorted soft drinks.
Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
Anago, or saltwater eel, is the star of the show here. And if you want to enjoy its full flavor potential, start with the hako-meshi; the signature preparation of Conger eel that’s been seared and basted in a warm paste of sugar-sweetened soy.
And what’s the service like?
Staff work hard to keep everyone moving, but don’t expect to make friends.
What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?
If you’re traveling with seafood enthusiasts who want to experience an under-appreciated aspect of Japanese cuisine, this is the spot for them. Loud and compact, it’s not exactly a romantic setting; for date night, head elsewhere.